Refried Beans and "Flat Enchiladas"

Refried beans are a staple of so many Mexican meals, and there is nothing quite so good as those you make at home. Here's a list of just a few of the meals you can prepare focused on this great dish:

• Burritos--bean and cheese, bean, bean and vegetables (sauteed peppers, onions, and spinach or other greens is a great combination), bean and ground beef, breakfast (egg) burritos, etc., etc.
• Enchiladas--pretty much the same list of variations as for burritos
• Refried bean soup--if your family isn't really excited about the old standard bean soup, this is a good one to try
• Bean and cheese nachos--try this dip with apples and raw vegetables as well as with chips
• And then of course there is the addition of a side of refried beans to any Mexican main dish, stretching the meal economically and nutritionally.

If you start with a bag of dried beans, this is also one of the most frugal foods you can prepare. Cooking up a two pound bag of beans takes no more real time to prepare than smaller amounts, and most of the time doesn't require your attention at all.

If you have never prepared dried beans, this is a good place to experiment. Pinto beans are almost always the least expensive of all your choices and they are pretty resilient in how you prepare them, and they are the usual basis for frijoles refritos. However, lots of other beans can be prepared in the same way--and we all know how popular refried black beans have become at a lot of restaurants.

First, the basics of dried bean cookery:

1. Almost all beans will need to be pre-soaked. There are primarily two approaches to pre-soaking:

Wash the beans and add water, covering to at least an inch above the beans. Allow to sit at least five to six hours or overnight.
OR
Wash the beans and add water, covering to at least an inch above the beans. Bring the beans to a boil and cook for about 2 to 3 minutes. Turn off heat and let sit for an hour or so.

2. After the beans have soaked, drain well, rinse lightly if desired, and then cover with fresh water, again allowing about an inch of water above the top layer of beans.

TWO SIDE NOTES HERE--Changing the water and salting--or not--the beans

About the rinsing and changing the water--yes, you probably lose a few nutrients by not cooking the beans in the same water in which they soak. However, these little guys are so nutrient-dense, they still are packed with minerals and fiber...and the water that is washed away carries with it at least most of the "flatulence producers" for which beans have a sometimes well-deserved reputation. For this reason if no other, don't forget to drain the soaking water and add in one more rinse if desired!)

And a debate that probably only hardcore cooks really worry about: do I salt the beans while cooking or not?

• There are two basic schools of thought on this. One group of cooks insists that adding any salt before the beans are well-cooked will toughen them and they will never become truly soft. The other group says Nonsense, if you don't salt them first, they will never really pick up the flavor you want.
• I have generally been a don't salt them till they are cooked person, but I did find a third way awhile ago that seems to be a great compromise. Add salt to the soaking water but then, when you drain the beans, don't add any salt to the cooking water. This works very well--my only problem is that I all too often forget to add the salt at the beginning and think of it only after the beans have finished their soak.

3. Bring the beans to a boil, turn down the heat, and cook gently until the beans are soft. Test by mashing a bean or two against the side of the pan. You will need to allow about an hour or so for this phase.

• Instead of cooking on the stove top, you can instead place the beans in a very large slow cooker; cover the beans with water and cooking on LOW for five to six hours or on HIGH for two to three hours.

Note that the cooking time either on the stove top or in a slow cooker will vary, rather dramatically at times. Why? Dried beans will stay perfectly edible and nutritious on the shelf for literally years. However, the older the beans, the longer it will take to cook them to tenderness. Since you probably won't know just how old the beans are when you buy them, you will have to use your best guess for the cooking time, always being ready to cook them longer than you had planned!


When the beans are tender, they are ready to be made into refried beans (or for any other recipe calling for canned beans for that matter). You can also freeze some or all of the beans in their cooking liquid at this point too. That two pound bag of beans you started with (just $1. 39 right now at my local Aldi store) will yield at least six pounds of prepared beans, so you have lots to work with.

Now, for the "re-frying." That is truly a misnomer, since, as Wikipedia points out,

The name is based on a mistranslation.In Mexican Spanish, the prefix re is an informal form of emphasis meaning "very" or "well", not to be confused with the English re and the most common use of the Spanish prefix re outside Mexico, which indicates repetition. Thus, frijoles refritos, the Mexican name of this dish, should translate to English as "well-fried beans", not "refried beans". However, this still does not explain the reference to frying in the name. In this dish, the beans are not fried. Indeed, beans are never fried, so the name is bizarre on any count. A sensible name in English for this dish would be "mashed beans."

So our "sensible" cooking style will include very little oil as well, just enough to keep the beans from sticking to the pan as they are gently cooked with seasonings. As with so many of these basic, "ethnic," dishes, the recipe proportions here are easily adjusted to suit your family's own preferences. Oh, and if you just can't get the time together to cook beans from scratch, you can still make refried beans from canned beans; just be sure to avoid adding any salt until you have tasted the mixture, as most canned beans are way too high in salt. (One more reason to make your own!)

Frijoles Refritos--mashed, not fried

1 T canola oil
1 large onion, chopped
1 4 oz can diced green chiles
2 to 3 cloves garlic, minced (OR 1 to 2 t garlic powder)

3 to 4 c cooked pinto beans, with liquid

2 t oregano (Mexican, if available)
2 t cumin
1 T cider or balsamic vinegar
1 to 2 T chili powder (optional)
1/3 c chopped cilantro, stems and leaves (optional)
salt to taste
Saute the onion in the canola oil until just starting to turn golden. Stir in the garlic, beans, oregano and cumin. Add enough of the bean liquid to make a rather runny mixture.

Using a potato masher, mash the beans while stirring over medium heat. Add the chiles, vinegar, and chili powder and continue stirring. Use a spatula to scrape the bottom of the pan--a little bit of crust formed at the bottom will add flavor to the mix, but you do not want the beans to burn on. Taste for seasoning and add salt as needed, along with additional bean liquid or water if the mixture becomes too thick. (These will thicken when cooled, so you want to be sure that they maintain the consistency of thin cooked oatmeal.) Add the cilantro near the end of cooking.

One of the challenges I had in this post was trying to come up with a picture that would be both appetizing and would show how the beans start to come together as you prepare them. Not sure I succeeded, but this is what the mashed, seasoned beans will start to look like.





And now a quick enchilada recipe that uses some of your homemade refried beans.

Flat Bean and Cheese Enchiladas

Yes this is a large recipe and can easily be divided. However, make it in an 11 X 13 or similar casserole dish for a crowd, or divide it between two 7 X 11 pans and freeze one to pop in the oven on another day.

2 to 3 c refried beans
3/4 c cubed or sliced processed cheese
1/2 c yogurt (optional)
12 to 15 corn tortillas
12 to 16 oz grated cheddar or Monterrey jack cheese

Enchilada Sauce:
28 oz can or jar spaghetti sauce, preferably a garden vegetable variety
1 c prepared enchilada sauce
1/3 to 1/2 c finely chopped onion
1 t garlic powder OR 2 to 3 cloves garlic, minced
1 to 2 t cumin, to taste
chili powder to taste--start out with about a tablespoon or two
8 oz butternut squash puree (optional, but see NOTE)
1/2 c chopped cilantro (opt)
1 4 oz can diced green chilies OR 1/3 c diced bell or jalapeno pepper (optional, to taste)

1. Combine all the enchilada sauce ingredients and heat on the stovetop or in the microwave. Taste and adjust seasonings as desired.
2. Meanwhile, combine the refried beans and processed cheese in a microwave safe bowl. Heat for a minute or two to soften the mixture. If it is still very thick, add a little yogurt to make it "spreadable.)
3. Spread a few spoonfuls of the sauce over the bottom of an 11 X 13 or similar sized casserole dish. Arrange tortillas evenly across the sauce, tearing as necessary to completely cover the bottom of the baking dish.
4. Spread about half the refried bean mixture evenly over the tortillas, then layer with a third of the remaining enchilada sauce. Sprinkle with a little of the grated cheese.
5. Repeat the layers--tortillas, remaining beans, a third of the sauce, and cheese.
6. Finish the dish with one more layer of tortillas, the remaining sauce, and a thick layer of cheese. Be sure that the tortillas are completely covered with sauce to avoid any hardened edges when done. If freezing one part of the enchiladas, cover tightly at this point, label, and freeze.
7. Bake at 350 degrees about 30 to 45 minutes, until the mixture is bubbling around the edges and the cheese is melted and golden. (If the cheese begins to brown, cover with foil for the last 15 minutes or so.)

NOTE: If you do not use squash, you may want to reduce the amount of spaghetti sauce slightly to avoid having the final dish too thin. You could also precook and mash carrots or sweet potatoes to substitute for the squash.

Black Bean Enchilada Bake

Yes, I know that enchiladas are really rolled up and yes, spaghetti sauce sounds suspiciously much more like Italian than Mexican food.

So here I come with a dish I call an "Enchilada Bake," based on flat tortillas and a spaghetti sauce base, but the addition of cumin, cilantro and green chiles brings it pretty darn close to Mexican food, especially when you are in a hurry and are working with just what you have in the cupboard. (And my suggestion is that you always have some basic spaghetti sauce on hand!)

Black Bean and Cheese Enchilada Bake

28 oz spaghetti sauce

15 oz tomatoes and green chiles

1 c diced onion, sautéed

1 t cumin

1 t dried cilantro

1 t garlic powder

15 oz black beans, drained—reserve liquid

1/3 to 1/2 c sliced processed cheese (Velveeta)

8 to10 corn tortillas

6 to 8 oz grated part-skim Mozzarella cheese

Combine the spaghetti sauce, tomatoes and chiles, sautéed onion, cumin, cilantro, and garlic powder. Add in the liquid drained from the black beans and simmer for about 15 to 20 minutes, until the mixture is slightly thickened.

Spread about a third of the sauce mixture on the bottom of a 9 X 13 microwave-safe pan. Tear tortillas to cover the bottom evenly. Spread with half the black beans and arrange the processed cheese over them. Layer with another third of the sauce, more tortillas, then the remainder of the black beans. Sprinkle generously with Mozzarella. Finish with another layer of tortillas, the rest of the sauce, and then more Mozzarella.

To cook:

With little time:

Loosely cover and microwave for about 7 to 8 minutes until mixture is bubbly in the center as well as around the edges.

With a little more time:

Loosely cover and microwave for about 5 to 6 minutes until the mixture is bubbly. Finish in a 375 degree oven to brown the top.

Or, if you are really organized, you can make this ahead, cover tightly, and refrigerate overnight (or even a couple of days ahead--make it on the weekend and have it ready for a busy weekday).

Serve with yogurt (or fat free sour cream), shredded lettuce, diced tomatoes, black olives, guacamole, salsa, hot sauce--whatever dress ups you like with "real" enchiladas. Enjoy!

High Nutrition Stuffed Tortillas

If increasing the nutritive value of some of your favorite meals is on your New Year’s resolution list, this quick lunch or light dinner meal will help in many ways. It includes a dark orange vegetable, a member of the cabbage family, some soy, whole grains, and no added salt beyond what is in the cheese—and that portion size is small enough to give some flavor without loading the overall meal with less than desirable fats.

To go with these burritos and round out the healthy theme, some crunchy apple or pear wedges on the side or a dish of diced orange pieces mixed with some stemmed grapes will provide great color and flavor balance.

Health Nut Burritos

1 c diced sweet potato

1/3 c chopped onion

canola oil

1 c edamame, precooked and shelled (see NOTE)

1/4 c chopped cilantro

cayenne pepper to taste (1/4 to 1/2 t)

1/4 to 1/2 t cumin

1 c finely shredded cabbage

1/2 c grated “taco blend” or Colby or mozzarella cheese

4 medium whole-wheat tortillas

Pour a small amount of oil in a medium sized skillet, just enough to “film” the bottom of the pan. Add the onions and sweet potatoes and cook slowly over medium heat until the onions are golden brown and the potatoes are just tender. (I like to cover the pan and add a few drops of water after about 3 or 4 minutes.)

Stir in the pepper, cumin, edamame and cilantro, stir, cover, and turn heat to low. Cook for another four to five minutes, until the mixture is well-warmed.

Meanwhile, warm the tortillas in the microwave for about 25 to 30 seconds.

Place a tortilla on each plate, arrange a quarter of the sweet potato mixture down the center of the tortilla and top with shredded cheese. If desired, put in microwave for 10 to 15 minutes, just long enough to melt cheese. Top with shredded cabbage and roll or fold like a burrito. If desired, add salsa and/or yogurt or fat free sour cream before rolling.

Serves 2 for lunch, 4 for a snack.

NOTE: Trader Joe’s is now in our town, and they have very reasonably priced edamame in the freezer section, already cooked and out of the pod. More and more grocery stores are now carrying this very healthy food as well.

Make-ahead idea:

The sweet potato and edamame mixture can be doubled and refrigerated or even frozen for future meals. Spoon single serving amounts on to a baking sheet and freeze until solid. Then pack all these little lumps of filling into a freezer bag, ready for as many burritos as you want for a quick meal or snack.

A Hearty Winter Meal

Here's a good meal for a snowy winter evening, a contrast to the many rich foods so common during this season. If you have leftover turkey from a Christmas dinner or turkey in the freezer from Thanksgiving, use that instead of the turkey thighs.

Southwestern Style Turkey Stew

Canola oil

2 turkey thighs, about 2 pounds

1 large onion, diced

1 c chopped celery

Garlic powder, salt, and seasoning salt to taste

1 c chopped bell pepper (optional)

Cumin and oregano to taste—a lot!!

15 oz can “chili-ready” diced tomatoes

1 c turkey or chicken broth

1 T sugar

1 T cider vinegar

2 c black beans (or 15 oz can), including liquid

12 to 16 oz frozen corn

1. Saute the onion and celery slowly in the oil. When very tender and golden, remove from the oil and put into the slow cooker.

2. Remove the skin and any excess fat from the thighs and brown them in the oil from the onion and celery. Sprinkle liberally with garlic powder and seasoning salt on both sides. Cover and simmer until the meat is very tender. Allow to cool enough to handle. Cut the meat off the bones and dice. Add to the slow cooker, along with the beans, corn, tomatoes, peppers, and other seasonings. Cover and cook on low for two to three hours.

3. Taste for seasoning after a few hours of simmering. I added about a teaspoon or two of mixed dried herbs (I used basil, marjoram, rosemary, and thyme), about a teaspoon or so, more garlic powder, more cumin, and seasoning salt.

The rest of the meal

A tossed salad or cole slaw makes a good side dish, and corn bread or rolls are good additions as well.

Dessert? I am blessed with a root-cellar-like garage, so have apples from the local orchards well into the winter. With plenty of garden raspberries in the freezer, I often turn to a mixture of these fruits for my dessert choices.

Apple Raspberry Upside Down Cake

Fruit layer:

2 c diced apples

1/2 c brown sugar

1 t cinnamon

10 to 12 oz frozen raspberries

Cake

1 white or yellow cake mix, two layer size

1 1/4 c water

2 eggs

2 T lemon juice

1 t cinnamon

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

2. Spread the apples in the bottom of a 9 X 13 pan and cover with the brown sugar and cinnamon. Place in the preheated oven and bake about 10 to 15 minutes until the sugar has melted and caramelized over the apples. Remove from the oven and add raspberries. Stir to spread the fruit evenly across the bottom of the pan.

3. Meanwhile, combine the cake ingredients and beat as directed on the cake mix package--usually 2 to 3 minutes at medium speed. Spread the cake batter over the fruit and bake for 35 to 40 minutes. Remove from oven and immediately turn onto a platter. May be served hot or cold.

Though I have not tried it, my guess is that strawberries could be substituted for the raspberries.

Slow Cooker Enchiladas

This is perfect for potlucks or a large family gathering, serving 8 to 10 (or more, at a potluck). It also reheats well so is a good recipe to make for a smaller family, providing lots of leftovers to tuck into the microwave. Remember that a slow cooker can be plugged in outside the kitchen (an attached garage, covered porch, or even a deck if you are around to monitor weather and stray animals!), so this is a good summer dish.

You will need at least a 5 1/2 quart oval slow cooker for this recipe: if you only have a 3 1/2 quart cooker, cut the recipe in half.

A note on the cheese: yes, the use of Velveeta is a more processed product than cheddar or similar cheeses would be, but it stands up best for this kind of slow cooker preparation, with no risk of clumping or separating that could occur with "natural" cheeses.

If you want to avoid processed cheeses, make a cheese sauce by preparing a white sauce and stirring in the cheddar, Monterrey Jack or other cheese just to melt. Use the resulting sauce in place of processed cheese.

Slow Cooker Chicken Enchiladas

15 to 17 corn tortillas, crisped in 350 degree oven
2 c rich seasoned chicken broth
1/3 c flour
1 15 oz can tomatoes and chiles, including liquid (see NOTE)
1 4 oz can diced chiles, including liquid
1 t cumin
1 c finely chopped onion
2 large garlic cloves, minced
1/4 c picante sauce, or to taste
6 to 8 oz American cheese, sliced thin--best to use a "block" cheese, like Velveeta in a one or two pound box, instead of pre-cut cheese slices
1 to 2 c grated mozzarella cheese
extra chicken broth as necessary
3 to 4 c diced cooked chicken

1. Toast the tortillas in single layers in a 350 degree oven for about 10 to 15 minutes, until crisp and just barely beginning to brown on the edges. Turn in the middle of toasting if needed. Remove from oven and set aside two or three of the most crisp tortillas for the topping.
2. Combine the broth and flour, blending well. Cook until thickened. Stir in tomatoes, chiles, onion, garlic, cumin and picante sauce.
3. Spread about a third of the broth and tomato mixture in the bottom of the slow cooker. Cover with a layer of tortillas, breaking up as necessary to cover. spread half the chicken over the tortillas and arrange seven of the cheese slices over the top. Cover with another third of the sauce. Repeat tortilla and chicken layers.
4. Spread about 1 cup of the grated cheese over the top and then cover with the remaining sauce.
5. Break the crisp tortillas that had been set aside into coarse chips and spread evenly over the sauce. Arrange the remaining American cheese slices over the top and sprinkle thickly with grated cheese. Spoon several tablespoons of the reserved chicken broth over the top. Cover and cook on low for 3 to 4 hours.

If desired, serve with sour cream (or plain yogurt), black olives, shredded lettuce and diced tomatoes on the side--and lots of hot sauce for those looking for even more heat.

NOTE: If you prefer less spicy enchiladas, substituted diced or crushed tomatoes for the tomatoes and chiles. Many brands of the tomatoes and chiles mixture have recently been reduced to 9 1/2 or 10 oz cans, so just using a smaller can will also reduce the heat.