(2-11-11: Not quite sure what happened here, but an editing comment I entered moved this November 2010 entry up to February 2012! I decided not to delete it, just in case you find some help in the comments on broth and stock, along with some really good soup recipes. Still, just want you to understand the out of season commentary at the beginning!)
For the last couple of years, I have been a guest at the big
Thanksgiving meal for our extended family. Since I haven't been making the
turkey myself, I have become the "carcass catcher," offering to "take
it off your hands" when the clean up process begins.
This year, I brought the bones home in the roaster where the
bird had been prepared, so I also received the benefit of a large amount of
rich drippings left after the gravy had been made. Popping all of these into my
electric roaster (breaking up the bones so they could all be immersed in
liquid), I added just enough water to cover before setting the roaster to
simmer overnight. The next day, I put the bones in a large colander and had a
gallon of rich, rich broth (or stock, whichever you prefer to call it*). I then
pulled over a pound of easily salvaged meat off the bones before wrapping them
securely for the garbage.
[*Wikipedia currently contains the following
"distinction" between stock
and broth:
The difference between broth and stock is one of both
cultural and colloquial terminology but certain definitions prevail. Stock is
the thin liquid produced by simmering raw ingredients: solids are removed,
leaving a thin, highly-flavoured liquid. This gives classic stock as made from
beef, veal, chicken, fish (court
bouillon) and vegetable stock. Broth differs in that it is a basic soup
where the solid pieces of flavouring meat or fish, along with some vegetables,
remain. It is often made more substantial by adding starches such as rice,
barley or pulses. Traditionally, broth contains some form of meat or fish:
nowadays it is acceptable to refer to a strictly vegetable soup as a broth.
My usual practice is to call either of these broth, but
you can split hairs as much as you'd like on this one!]
Our weather over Thanksgiving weekend was perfect for soup,
so we gathered again for another meal with friends and family. (I had
threatened to put out a Facebook invitation for a "Carcass and
Carcassone" game night, but cooler heads prevailed!) I made my
daughter-in-law Amy's wonderful tortilla soup with part of the extremely rich
and concentrated broth. Since I wasn't sure that everyone at the table would be
a fan of cilantro, I used another quart of broth for a vegetable soup. Those
who came brought their leftover desserts; along with plain old saltines and
some spiced apple rings I had made as an experiment, we had a quick and
complete menu.
There was still broth left, so that went into the freezer
for a large pot of potato soup on a very snowy night and the basis for a
non-vegetarian but very good black bean and vegetable soup. Four great menus,
serving lots of people, and all from the part of the turkey that is so often
thrown away.
Here are some of the recipes used. As with all good homemade
soups, however, the list of ingredients can and should be varied, based on what
is in the refrigerator at the time.
Amy’s Tortilla Soup
Amy usually starts her soup by boiling a chicken. The soup
then can be an appetizer course for the wonderful burritos she makes from the
deboned chicken, but it is so good we often turn it into the main course and
save the burritos for another meal. The recipe that follows is my adaptation of
her wonderful recipe.
2 to 3 c rich chicken or turkey broth
2 to 4 chicken bouillon cubes or packets, depending
water
2 T cumin
1 to 2 t garlic powder OR 5 to 6 garlic cloves, minced
2 bunches cilantro, well washed and chopped fine--I include
all but the coarsest stems and set aside about a third cup or so of the chopped
leaves for garnish
Mix-ins
cilantro--see above
cubed Monterrey Jack and/or cheddar cheese
2 to 3 diced avocados
salsa of your choice
diced tomatoes if in season
tortilla chips
Combine the broth, bouillon, cumin, and garlic with enough
water to make about three to four quarts of liquid. Bring to a boil and simmer
for 15 to 20 minutes. Add the cilantro, simmer for another half hour or so.
Meanwhile prepare the mix-ins and place in small bowls.
To serve, diners break some tortilla chips into the bottom
of their soup bowls and then add whatever other mix-ins they wish. The boiling
hot soup is ladled over the top. Hot sauce and plain yogurt or sour cream can
be added if desired.
Winter Vegetable
Soup--with Turkey Broth
Here's a wonderful thing to consider in making vegetable
soups--finely shredded cabbage makes a nice sweet addition to the finished
product, without anyone (especially those who usually eschew cabbage) really
noticing it as a specific flavor. Cabbage is generally reasonable in price year
round, and it is always near the top of those vegetables we are encouraged to
include more often in our menus.
1 large onion, about 2 cups chopped
3 stalks celery, diced
2 to 3 cloves garlic, minced OR garlic powder to taste ( 1
teaspoon?)
3 large carrots, diced
1 c butternut squash puree
2 to 4 cups rich turkey broth
2 to 3 cups finely shredded cabbage
12 to 16 oz frozen corn OR 15 oz can kidney beans OR both
1/2 cup pearl barley
seasoning--I like to use a mixture of dried basil, rosemary,
thyme, and marjoram as a start, along with a basic seasoning salt and black
pepper; alternative choices could include cumin (with cilantro chopped in), hot
pepper flakes, or poultry seasoning
1 tablespoon cider or wine vinegar
Saute the onion, celery, and garlic in a little oil, cooking
slowly until the onions are translucent and lightly golden. Put in a large slow
cooker and add the remaining ingredients. Add water to make the volume about 3 to
4 quarts.
Simmer together on LOW for four to six hours, depending on
your slow cooker.
After an hour or two, taste for seasoning. If the broth is
not as rich as you would like, a bouillon cube or two can be added for more
flavor.
Variation: If desired, add 2 to 3 cups of diced leftover
turkey or chicken about an hour before serving.
Non-Vegetarian Black Bean Soup
You may be starting to see a trend here: almost all my
vegetable soups start out with lots of onion, garlic, usually celery (unless
there is none in the refrigerator) and carrots. After these, the directions you
can go are almost endless. Always check out your produce drawer and freezer to
see what is available to throw in and don't be afraid to experiment.
1/2 onion, chopped
2 medium carrots, sliced
1/4 bell pepper, diced (or use dried bell pepper)
chicken or turkey stock—about 2 to 4 cups, depending on what
you have
water
3-4 c black beans (2 15 oz cans if not using beans you have
soaked and cooked yourself)
10 oz frozen chopped spinach
2 t cumin
1 t Cajun seasoning
1 t oregano
2 t cider vinegar
salt and pepper to taste
Saute the onions and carrots in a little oil or fat skimmed
off the broth, until the onions are translucent and the carrots are barely tender.
Add the pepper, stock, beans and seasonings., along with enough water to make
the consistency desired—more liquid for soup, a little less for a side dish or
stew. Simmer for up to an hour, allowing the flavors to blend. Taste for
seasoning and add the spinach about 15 minutes or so before serving.
Alternative seasonings—if you would like to move away from
the “Mexican” seasonings of cumin and oregano, substitute Italian seasoning and
a mixture of basil, thyme, and rosemary instead.
