Onions, Onions, Onions

After putting up the post about French-fried onions, I realized that many of my friends find preparing onions something to be avoided at all costs. Isn't it inevitable that you will end up with smelly fingers and burning, teary eyes?

Not necessarily! There are of course lots of suggestions out there for avoiding the tears, including some special kitchen goggles just for protecting eyes from the sting. Over the years, however, I have discovered some much simpler ways to avoid the "onion problem." Herewith, ideas that may help you as well:

• If ever there was a time to have a sharp knife to work with, this is it. Dull knives seem to mash the cells of the onions, releasing far more of the volatile smells that lead to tears. I prefer serrated blades for both peeling and cutting onions.

• Stand away from the onion!  If you are especially troubled by onion fumes, try to keep them as far away from your face as possible while peeling and cutting. For example, peel them while standing over the sink, with your hands as far down in the sink as you can reach.

• Cut a small slice off the top of the onion and then begin to peel.  When possible, pull much of the onion skin off with the blade of your knife rather than cutting it. You want to take off only the papery outer skins. The farther in you cut, the more you will be exposing yourself to the source of tear-problems.

•  If you really struggle with onion odors, you can peel the onion under water at the sink. However, this makes it quite a bit harder to get the skin off. When the onion is peeled, however, you are still going to have to move to the cutting board to do the dicing and slicing.

• In general, it will be easier to take the peeling off if you do not cut the root end off until most of the rest of the peeling is removed. 

 

• Use a cutting board! Unless you are making onion rings, cut the onion from pole to pole instead of around the equator. Then lay half the onion flat on the board and cut into pieces of the desired size. If you want onion rings, cut in half at the equator of the onion and then, balancing carefully, begin cutting the onion into rings from the center to the ends.

 

• If you have a very large amount of onions to chop or slice, you may use your processor (blenders rarely work well to get an even chop). Just be warned--when you take the cover off, the full concentration of vapors will hit you in the face unless you turn your head away!!

• If an onion has some soft spots, you can safely cut these off and use the rest of the onion. However, do be aware that these onions (usually soft because they are beginning to over-ripen) may have a more pungent odor.

• In the same way, onions that have started to sprout are perfectly safe to use--and the sprouted sections will have the flavor of fresh green onions. Just cut away any soft spots that may have formed around the top and around the sprouted sections.

Finally--practice, practice, practice. The more onions you cut, the easier it will get--honest!

Homemade "French-fried Onions," Cream of Mushroom Sauce, and Classic Green Bean Casserole

 It's that time of year again. For many, Thanksgiving is synonymous with roast turkey and stuffing, with lots of pies to follow.

For others, the really mandatory dish at the Thanksgiving day feast is Green Bean Casserole...and please don't try to make any adjustments to the tradition.  Since I have been given the task of bringing vegetable sides to this year's dinner, I will be responsible for making the green beans along with some roasted squash and perhaps one more choice.

So how can a "frugal" cook justify spending $15 or more for a pound of the traditional garnish when I just bought onions for 23 cents a pound? Surely these can't be difficult to make...can they?

Off to the search engines to find methods and recipes, a very simple task with over a million hits for "French fried onions recipe." Blog after blog talked about the ease of making these, along with praise for the fresh flavor and lack of preservatives the homemade crisps provided.

I was hooked. I started out with just two onions, but one was large enough that I ended up with over 4 cups of the thinly slivered pieces or "strings," the name given these on a couple of blogs. In the end, I only fried up less than half of them, still ending up with over 12 oz of finished product.

My results? These were pretty easy, though there are some hints that need to be followed to come up with nicely golden and crisp pieces. The time (and dishes to be washed) was not overwhelming but certainly would be a factor in anyone's decision to make from scratch or buy. And the cost (not including the cook's time) would definitely be less. However, as noted below, there are some "leftovers" from the process that would need to be used rather than thrown away or the overall cost could be quite a bit more.

Here is my overall pro and con analysis--review and then decide for yourself if this is something you would want to try.

Pros
Overall cost, based on 38 cents a pound for onions (the "everyday" bottom price here when there are no specials) and current prices for other ingredients, would be a little over a dollar for the 12 ounces I ended up making. Almost all of this cost is coming from the 2 to 3 cups of canola oil that were required. (Under no circumstances would I reuse this!)  Part of this low cost also comes from using the remaining milk and flour mixture as noted below.

There are no preservatives and you can adjust for yourself the level of salt used. Many of the recipes on the web suggest soy or other gluten-free flours, and that could easily be done, another plus if you have special diets to consider.

The amount of time it took to make this was relatively short, less than an hour from start to finish--and I was able to do some minor clean up chores around the kitchen while watching (closely!) each batch of strings as they fried. This could also be a fun activity to do with others in the kitchen as well.

These will store well if cooled completely before putting in a tightly sealed (preferably glass) container, so they can be made ahead to have on hand for the holidays. They can be frozen, but should be thawed completely before opening the container.


Cons
I really don't like frying things, and this involves the usual frying mess of thermometers, cookie sheets covered with paper towels, and grease to be disposed of. For me, the yuk factor is pretty high.

If you are not very careful about shaking off excess flour, the oil will quickly darken and even begin to taste burned. I used a strainer to dip out some of this between batches, but it takes some practice to avoid problems with this. If you end up with too much browned matter in the bottom, you might want to start over with new oil, but that adds more dishes (you'll need another pan unless you are ready to wait for the first oil to cool) and added cost of oil.

While less than an hour from start to finish may be "short" for someone with time to spend in the kitchen, trying to squeeze in this chore along with all the other holiday preparation could be just too much to add to the cook's to-do list.

If you don't have time, patience, or desire to use the "leftover" milk and flour mixture, the cost will be quite a bit higher and would certainly bring into question any savings you might have hoped to realize.

Bottom line:
This may be a fun thing to try once or twice and it could even be a good option if you are trying for a gluten free topping. Otherwise, you have three options:

• Convince the traditionalists that they don't need this low-nutrition topping anyway (how about seasoned bread crumbs browned in a little butter with some slivered almonds tossed in instead?)
• Bite the bullet and buy the smallest container you can get away with
• Top the casserole with onions simply sauteed in a little butter and bread crumbs. They might not be as crisp, but the flavor will be at least as good, and the calorie content has to be lower.

French Fried Onion Strings for Toppings

1 large or 2 medium onions, thinly cut in julienne slices--about 2 to 3 cups
2 c milk
2 c flour
2 t salt, or to taste
2 t onion powder (or substitute onion salt for part of regular salt)
canola oil for frying--start with 2 to 3 cups

1.  Pour the milk into a flat bowl. Combine the flour, salt, and onion powder in a somewhat larger flat bowl.


2.  To prepare the onions, peel and quarter from pole to pole, not across the equator. Thinly slice each quarter into julienned "strings" and put into the milk. Allow to soak at least 5 minutes or so.

3.  Spread a layer of newspaper on a large baking sheet and cover with two thicknesses of paper towels. (You will want to have more newspaper and paper towels ready for later batches too.)

4.  Pour about 2 inches of oil into a medium pan or skillet and begin heating over medium-high heat. Insert a deep-frying thermometer in the oil (don't allow it to touch the bottom of the pan) and heat the oil to 375 degrees.

5.  When the oil is almost ready, take a handful of onion strings from the milk, drain lightly and toss in the flour. Still using your hands, lift and shake the onion strings to get as much excess flour as possible from falling into the oil. Drop the coated strings into the oil all at once (be careful not to let it splash!) and stir lightly. A "handful" was about a cup or so of the coated strings, just the right amount for my pan. Don't try a larger pan. If you add all the onions at the same time, you will have difficulty getting them to cook evenly, so using the smaller pan and doing only a few at a time will yield much better results--and will require less oil overall.

6.  Allow the onion strings to brown completely and then lift out with a slotted spoon or strainer. Spread on the prepared paper towels to drain and then wait for the oil to return to 375 degrees before adding the next batch.

While waiting for the oil to heat up, you may want to use your strainer or slotted spoon to lift out some of the browned flour at the bottom of the pan. You may also need to add more oil after a few batches--if so, be very sure to allow the temperature to return to 375 before adding more onions.

When finished, allow the oil to cool completely before disposing.


Now, for the extra milk and flour--and small pieces of onion that are still going to be hiding in that flour mixture--use it to make your own sauce for the green bean casserole or any other "hot dish" application where cream of mushroom soup is called for.

Cream of Mushroom Sauce, with Onions

2 T butter and 1 T canola oil (or all oil)
8 oz fresh mushrooms, cleaned and sliced
1/2 c seasoned flour from fried onions--include onion bits that may be in the flour
1 3/4 to 2 c milk--use "leftover" milk from the fried onions if you have it
1 chicken or vegetarian bouillon cube
salt, seasoning salt, and black pepper to taste

1.  Saute the mushrooms in the butter and oil over medium heat. Cook until the mushrooms are golden and tender.
2.  Stir in the flour, making a roux--that is, stir the mixture together until it is evenly mixed and the flour has completely"disappeared" into the oils. Continue to cook for a minute or two more.



(Okay, that looks a little scary, doesn't it! Never fear. If you have only the butter/oil mixture and the mushrooms in the pan so far, the flour will blend into the oils in the pan without a problem. Just keep stirring until you can't see any of the white flour. Be brave!)

3.  Stir in 1 3/4 cups of the milk, cooking and stirring until the mixture bubbles and thickens. Add additional milk to reach desired thickness. Taste and adjust for seasoning.

The sauce you have just made can be used wherever a recipe calls for condensed cream of mushroom soup. This will make the equivalent of two of the familiar red and white label cans. The onion in the flour (and flavoring the milk as well) provides a subtle boost very like the familiar canned soup flavor, and without any of the preservatives.

Variation:

If you decided not to make your own onion topping, you can still make this mushroom sauce. Just finely dice 1/2 cup or so of onion and saute with the mushrooms.

With both the French-fried onions AND the condensed soup for the sauce ready, now you are ready to put together the "classic"green bean casserole--the really easy part!

Classic Green Bean Casserole

16 oz package frozen green beans--French cut preferred
1 can cream of mushroom soup OR 1/2 recipe from above
1 T Worcestershire OR soy sauce--optional
1 c (or more if you like) French fried onion pieces

Thaw the beans but do not cook. Stir in the mushroom soup, about a third of the onions,  and Worcestershire or soy sauce if used. Pour the mixture into a 1 1/2 quart casserole dish and top with the remaining onion pieces.
Bake at 350 degrees about 20 to 25 minutes, until bubbly.

Variation--if fresh beans are used, cook until just tender crisp, drain, and then proceed with the recipe.

Pork Roast for Fall--Cook Once, Serve Two or More Times

Pork is particularly well-priced right now, a perfect season for it since it pairs so well with many fall fruits and vegetables. I was able to buy this roast for only $1.39 a pound so have enough for at least 15 to 20 servings at a remarkably low price. With the continuing impact of the drought, I do wonder if we will look back next year at this price and wonder how we ever saw such bargains. For now, we can be thankful for the bargains and take advantage of them whenever possible.

While there is a little prep time involved with this recipe, the result will enable you to serve guests, to freeze some for a later meal, and/or to make sliced roast sandwiches, pulled pork, stir fry, burritos, etc. If so inclined, you could feed a family of four an entire week for a little over $10, and never duplicate the menu!

Autumn Pork Roast--and More

The Roast...

approximately 7 1/2 lb pork shoulder roast, bone in

1 large onion (about 2 cups), cut in julienne strips

2 to 3 c finely chopped apples, cored but not peeled (OR 1 to 1 1/2 c unsweetened applesauce)

1 T canola oil (optional; see NOTE)

1 t dried rosemary

1 t ginger

1/2 t cinnamon

1/8 t nutmeg

1.            Cut the roast in two approximately equal pieces.(Cutting the roast into two pieces allows more surface of the meat to be in contact with the apples, onions, and seasonings.It also provides for more even cooking overall.)

2.            Heat the canola oil or trimmed fat (see NOTE) in a cast iron or other heavy skillet. When almost smoking, add one of the pieces of roast and brown on all sides. When all sides are browned, transfer to a large roasting pan. Repeat the browning with the second piece of meat.

3.            Cover the roasting pan and place in a 350 degree oven

4.            If using chopped apples, cover and microwave for about 3 to 4 minutes, until very tender.

5.            Saute the julienned onion in the juices in the skillet, cooking just until they have begun to brown. Stir in the apples or applesauce and seasoning.

6.            Spread the onion and apple mixture, with the juices, over the roast. Add a small amount of water if necessary to cover the bottom of the pan with liquid. Cover the pan and return to the oven.

7.            Turn the heat to 300 degrees and continue roasting for 3 to 4 hours, until the internal temperature is at least 145 degrees (though many, including myself) will prefer to cook longer, almost to the point of the meat falling apart, or 160 degrees or so.

8.            Remove the roast from the oven and allow to sit for at least 15 to 25 minutes. Skim the juices into a pan and thicken for gravy if desired or just serve with the meat juices as is. As the meat is sliced and served, provide salt and pepper to taste. (I do not salt the roast itself since that concentrates the saltiness only on the edges. As a result, most people still add more salt before eating, so you can reduce the ultimate sodium content with my approach.)

NOTE—the roast that I was using was so lean, there was not enough fat to adequately cover the pan while browning. If there is fat to be trimmed from the roast, cut it off and dice. Put it in the pan while heating to provide a thin layer of fat for browning, instead of using the oil. 

Slow Cooker Alternative

After sauteeing the roasts, place in a large (6 1/2 to 7 1/2 quart) slow cooker. Add the vegetables and cook on low for 5 to 6 hours, depending on your cooker.

...And More

Here are more detailed suggestions for using the meat as the basis for several meals. Unless otherwise noted, these are for four servings each.

Day 1     Set aside one of the roasts for use later in the week (or freeze for later menu planning). Slice the remainder of the one served the first day and reheat in the microwave, with mashed potatoes and two vegetables, one yellow/orange, one green. On the golden side of the plate, try baked squash or carrots braised with some onion and celery as in the photo. For the green part of the palette, try broccoli or braised greens from the garden. Or, if you have some available, put steamed red cabbage on the plate as pictured.

The reserved juices can be thickened slightly with corn starch for a gravy for the potatoes and/or the meat. There should be enough meat for serving 6 to 7 people, so this could be an ideal meal for sharing with guests.  If fewer people are served, you can freeze the leftover meat and sauce for a later meal. If you have some divided freezer trays, you could also make your own frozen dinners with all of the leftover ingredients.

Day 2     Cut four thin slices off the second roast. Place each on a slice of good whole wheat (or rye) bread and add mustard, lettuce, Swiss or other cheese, and whatever other things you like for a hearty sandwich. Chewy hard rolls are another good bread alternative. Skip the lettuce and heat the sandwiches to go with a tossed salad and some apple cranberry sauce. 

Day 3     Prepare your favorite stuffing (from a mix if that fits your schedule best). Stir in half a chopped apple and/or some dried cranberries if desired.  Oil a microwave-safe serving dish large enough to arrange four thin slices of pork roast over the bottom. Spread the stuffing over the meat and return to the microwave to heat thoroughly. This goes well with some of the squash from the first day or cole slaw or a plate of mixed fruits.

Day 4 and/or Day 5   Time to go ethnic. The pieces of meat around the bone can be diced and used in a stir fry or with cheese, beans, salsa, etc., as the filling for hearty burritos. In fact, my roast ended up providing enough meat for both a stir fry and burritos.

Additional ideas   If you still have some meat and/or bone left, you could add this to your favorite split pea or lentil soup, for just a little extra heartiness. (Stirring a little into macaroni and cheese would be another option too.)  Though the meat doesn't have the seasonings of sausage or pepperoni, it could be added to a pizza, with extra oregano, fennel, etc., added for more zip.

And we didn't even get to Pulled Pork, a great way to use up those bits and pieces along with any extra juices. Just take all the scraps and stir them into a little of your favorite barbecue sauce, put on a bun and microwave until heated through. Can't get much easier (or more frugal) than that!

Freezing   The meat may be frozen to use for additional meals. Simply slice (or dice) and place in small plastic bags, each enough for four servings (or the size that best suits your household). Seal tightly to keep air out and then place the small bags in a larger freezer bag. Label with the date and use within two to three months.

The bottom line is this:

Sometimes that enormous looking roast that is at a bargain price can result in not only saving dollars on the budget; it can also save you time since the cooking is done once and then the meat is ready for all kinds of other meals. 

Cooking Hint for the Day:

To julienne onions:            Peel a whole onion and cut in half from pole to pole instead of around the equator. Cut each half in half, pole to pole. Lay each quarter flat on the cutting board and slice in thin slices, again pole to pole. If the onion is very large, you may want to make one more pole to pole cut to reduce the size of pieces. The result should look like this: