Monday, August 29, 2011

Zucchini Part II--Dessert


My kids' paternal Great Grandma was a master cook and baker, and one of her "signature dishes" was Flop Cake. She never would say why she had given it this name, but no matter. She always baked the moist, almost brownie-like cake in a 9 X 13 pan, with a thick layer of fudge frosting over the top. Somehow, that frosting always came out just right.

Over the years, I have made the cake often, and the frosting even more times, as it has a wonderful flavor good for many other desserts. However, I have come to think that the "flop" in the name for the cake really was reserved for the frosting, as it can sometimes stubbornly refuse to set (but oh, what a wonderful fudge sauce that is) or it can turn to rock-hard fudge candy before the frosting is halfway spread. Even that, however, means you think you are getting a piece of candy along with your cake, so it's not all bad. And so I keep on making it, always with the hope that this time maybe things will work out to that perfect glossy perfection Grandma always seemed to achieve.

It so happens that we were celebrating a seventh birthday last week for one of my grandsons. It was clear that a chocolate cake with chocolate icing would be his choice, so I went searching for a dense chocolate cake--of course with zucchini--with the plan to use Grandma's fudge frosting as the topper. I'd even dig out the candy thermometer to go with the standard soft ball test--surely that would improve my chances at a just right texture.

Well, the cake was a great success...at least in flavor and texture. The appearance? Hmmm...let's just say that it was really good we were eating on the deck and dusk was starting to fall by the time the cake came out. Not being able to see it too well was really quite an asset--maybe I should just include "serve as part of a dinner by candlelight" as part of the instructions.

I suspect that part of the recipe problem is that Grandma sometimes used a coffee cup or a tea cup for her measuring, so I will be doing some investigating on line to find more reliable proportions for the frosting. Meanwhile, I am presenting to you the recipes for both cake and frosting, since the flavors together were wonderful--and the cake was still so good three days on that guests ate heartily and then carried home the leftovers so they could savor every last crumb.


Zucchini Fudge Cake

1/2 c butter, softened
1/2 c canola oil
2 1/2 c sugar
4 eggs
2 t vanilla
1/2 to 3/4 c baking cocoa (you need at least half a cup, but I like the added chocolate-i-ness of the full three quarters of a cup)
3 c flour
2 t baking powder
1 t soda
1/3 c powdered nonfat dry milk (see NOTE 2)
3/4 c water
1 t cider vinegar
3 c grated zucchini
1 c coarsely chopped walnuts

1. Cream the butter, oil, and sugar together until very well mixed.

NOTE 1: When making cakes, the old-fashioned cooks knew that the secret to a really wonderful texture was to cream the butter or shortening with the sugar for several minutes, until the sugar is almost dissolved. I am blessed to have a stand mixer that has served me well for decades, so I can put the butter, oil, and sugar in the bowl and walk away to prepare the pan for baking or do other things while letting the mixer do its thing. If you have only a small hand-held mixer, do try to spend as much time on this step as you can, at least for special occasion cakes. You will be amazed at the difference it can make.

2. When the mixture is very light and fluffy, gradually beat in the eggs, vanilla, and cocoa powder. Continue to beat at medium speed until well mixed and uniform in color, about a minute or so more.

3. Add the vinegar to the water and dry milk powder and stir well.
NOTE 2: If you do not have dry milk powder, use 3/4 c milk instead of the water and dry milk. And of course, if you have buttermilk, you can use that and omit the vinegar.
4. Sift together the flour, baking powder and baking soda. Now, starting with about a third of the dry ingredients, add these alternately to the egg mixture with the milk.
NOTE 3: When you are asked to add wet and dry ingredients alternately like this, always start with a third of the dry ingredients, then half the wet, then the next third of the dry, followed by the rest of the wet and then the rest of the dry. Why? This ensures that the mixture will be mixed completely without a lot of over-beating or pockets of dry stuff in the batter when you go to put it in the pan. While it may seem like a lot of extra work, it really isn't, and, trust me, you will be much happier with the results if you use this method instead of dumping everything in all at once!
4. Grate the zucchini with a hand grater or in a processor or blender. The shreds do not have to be terribly fine. Do not drain the zucchini; just use it as is.



5. After the batter is well combined, fold in the grated zucchini and the walnuts. Stir just enough to be sure everything is evenly distributed.
NOTE 4: Though nuts are usually optional in recipes like this, I think they are important to include here if possible. The walnuts enhance the flavor but they also will mask any possible "texture" feel from the zucchini.
6. Turn the mixture into a well-oiled and floured Bundt pan or a 10 inch tube pan. If the latter is used, you may want to use part of the batter for six cup cakes so that the pan does not get too full. Bake at 350 degrees for 45 minutes to one hour, until a toothpick inserted near the center comes out just barely clean. For the moistest cake, you do not want to overbake.

7. Allow the cake to cool in the pan 5 to 10 minutes before inverting on a cake plate. Cool well before frosting.



And now, the frosting!


Flop Cake Fudge Frosting

1 1/2 c granulated sugar--NOT powdered
1/3 to 1/2 c baking cocoa
1/2 c milk
2 t cornstarch
2 t butter
1 t vanilla

1. Combine the sugar, cocoa, and cornstarch in a heavy saucepan and stir until well blended. Gradually stir in the milk and then begin heating the mixture over medium high heat. Bring to a boil, stirring often.

2. Cook until a few drops of the mixture form a soft ball in ice cold water ("soft ball stage") or until a candy thermometer registers 235 to 240 degrees.



3. Remove from heat and let cool, stirring occasionally. (Try not to scrape down the sides from here on out, as that can cause the entire mixture to get sugary instead of staying creamy.)

4. Stir in the butter and vanilla and beat for a few minutes until the mixture is glossy. Spread immediately on the cake.


Problem solvers:

If the frosting does start to harden too quickly, you might be able to get a little milk stirred in to make it spreadable. However, my experience has been that this sometimes just turns the frosting into syrup!

On the other hand, if you can't get the frosting to set at all, you can resign yourself to drizzling it over the cake and hope this "glaze" will eventually harden. You can also beat in some powdered sugar to thicken the frosting, though some of the pure fudge-i-ness will be lost. Or, you can always just turn it into fudge sauce; slice the cake, top with a big scoop of vanilla ice cream, and then drizzle the sauce over the top, as though that was what you meant all along!

As you can see in the picture below, I was unable to get the frosting spread on the cake before it started to harden into chunky fudge. Not very pretty, but the flavor was wonderful...Oh, and there wasn't a fleck of green to give the zucchini away!




(By the way, this still worked for a birthday cake just fine, with candles and a very happy little boy to have the chocolate cake he had asked for.)

Saturday, August 20, 2011

Zucchini Part I--As a Main Dish





We have all heard the jokes about the orphaned bags of zucchini left on the doorstep overnight, but I had a very nice experience a week or so ago. There at the door were my master gardener neighbors, offering up a beautifully arranged basket of zucchini, yellow squash and cucumbers they were offering to share with the rest of us on the street.

Selecting a lavishly striped zucchini for my share, I added it to the yellow squash that are actually doing quite nicely in my own garden this year. Then, only a few days later, my daughter arrived from eastern Wisconsin with a large bag of more zucchini and cucumbers from her master gardener uncle. What a bounty!

A couple of years ago, I found the cookbook pictured above at a garage sale, a real bargain for only 50 cents. The cookbook is self-published--looking like a church cookbook with that same kind of plastic binding--with almost 300 pages of recipes for...zucchini. Yup, every single one of them includes zucchini. Sliced zucchini, grated zucchini, pureed zucchini, even zucchini juice. Main dishes, breads, salads, preserves, desserts, they're all there. Will I ever use all of them? Of course not. The zucchini juice section seems a little more work than I'm ready for, and the cake section seems to go over the top at times. Still, the book has been a great idea starter and a good supplement to some of the things I already do with these squashes.

And I have been "doing." Here and in the next couple of posts, I'll be sharing some old and new ways that I have found to use up these free foods--and you can't get much more frugal than free, can you!

For starters, let's go with lasagna. While this includes browning the zucchini in olive oil, the recipe itself is still a little lighter than most because of the "missing" pasta, use of fat free yogurt instead of ricotta, and the absence of meat. I've been making my adaptation of a recipe from Jane Brody's Good Food Book for over 25 years, and it still makes people happy when it is served. It's especially good when we have these giant zucchinis from the garden, though smaller ones available other times of the year can also be used.

Zucchini Lasagna
Enough for a 9 X 13 or 11 or 12 inch square pan

2 large or 3 to 4 medium zucchini--the zucchini will shrink a little while sauteeing so be sure you have enough!
2 to 3 T flour
3 T corn meal
salt or seasoning salt--about 1/4 to 1/3 t
olive or canola oil
2 c nonfat plain yogurt
2 eggs
1/2 t garlic powder
Italian seasoning and/or oregano to taste
1 can or jar, 26 to 28 ounces, spaghetti sauce
8 oz tomato sauce
additional herbs (I like a little basil and additional oregano) or garlic powder as desired
8 ounces grated mozzarella or "Italian blend" cheese
approximately 1/2 c grated Parmesan cheese

1. Slice the zucchini lengthwise into quarter inch thick slices. If desired, sprinkle lightly with salt and place in a colander for about 20 to 30 minutes. Before dipping in the flour mixture in step 2, squeeze them lightly to extract more liquid. (This is not a required step, but it does help make them brown more quickly and evenly.)

2. In a large frying pan, heat just enough oil to thinly cover the bottom. Meanwhile, combine the flour, cornmeal, and salt in a flat dish. Dip the zucchini slices in the flour mixture, coating each side well. When the oil is just shimmering, put the zucchini slices in and cook over medium high heat, turning to brown both sides. You will need to work in batches, so take the first slices out and put them on a platter lined with a paper towel. Add a bit of oil to the pan as needed and continue sauteeing the slices until they are all just golden. Do not overcook or they will be too soft to handle easily.

3. Combine the yogurt, eggs, garlic powder, oregano, and Italian seasoning and mix well. In a separate container, combine the spaghetti sauce, tomato sauce and any additional herbs or seasonings as desired.

4. Now the layering begins! Spread a small amount of the tomato mixture over the bottom of the pan, covering it thoroughly. Then cover this with a third of the zucchini slices, pressing them close together so the bottom of the pan is well covered. Spread with half the yogurt mixture and then about a third of the remaining tomato sauce. Sprinkle with a third of the mozzarella cheese.

Repeat the layers--another third of the zucchini, the rest of the yogurt, another third of the tomato sauce, and a third of the mozzarella. Complete the layering with one more layer of zucchini covered with the rest of the tomato sauce and then the remaining mozzarella. The final topping is the Parmesan, spread evenly over the entire dish.

5. Bake the lasagna in a 350 degree oven about 45 minutes, until the mixture is bubbly and the top is golden. If it seems to be getting too brown too quickly, you can cover it loosely with foil for the last 15 minutes or so.

6. As with all lasagnas, allow this to sit for 15 to 20 minutes after taking it out of the oven so that it will cut and serve more easily. This easily serves 8 people. Leftovers reheat well in the microwave or can be frozen.


Thursday, August 18, 2011

Fruit Crisps




My raspberries are currently on hiatus, having finished their July efforts a little less productively than most years but once again full of blossoms and “baby berries.” The hordes of bees humming all around are a wonderful sight. I sometimes think these berry bushes read the calendar better than I, since turning the page from July to August almost invariably means that all remaining red or even pink berries miraculously disappear. Then, Labor Day weekend arrives and ripening berries again appear, gracing the yard and my table from then until frost.
Even though there are no fresh berries available right now, I have two large raspberry crisps in the oven, ready to take to a dinner this evening. Anticipating another good crop, it seemed like a good time to clear out the last of the 2010 packages. That’s the lovely thing about fruit crisps: they are as good made from frozen fruit as fresh, so they can be enjoyed year round.

I have been making apple and other fruit crisps for so many years now that I rarely pull out any kind of recipe. Instead, I think of the topping in terms of ratios—flexible ones at that—so I can just make as much crumble as I want for the particular amount of fruit or presentation. Sometimes, I reduce the amount of fat for a little more basic dessert but other times the crumb topping is just like a shortbread cookie with some oatmeal and nuts added in. If I have a lot of fruit and I will be serving the crisp with ice cream or whipped topping, I might make less of the crumble. Other times, there might be more crumbs as I try to stretch a limited amount of fruit to serve just a few more people. However I end up making it, there never seem to be complaints!

Perhaps more than a recipe then, today I offer some “guidelines.”

Fruit Crisp Topping

1 part butter (or up to half canola oil and the rest butter)—for a very buttery topping, increase the butter so it equals the sugar amount
1 1/2 parts sugar
2 parts flour
cinnamon, nutmeg, and/or allspice to taste
1 1/2 to 2 parts oatmeal—usually the quick (NOT instant) rather than “old-fashioned” though the latter can make an interesting texture
1 part chopped walnuts, almonds, or pecans (optional)
Soften the butter just enough so that it can be mixed into an evenly crumbly texture with the remaining ingredients. A large fork is usually the best for this. Start by mixing the butter, sugar, flour and spices, and then add the oatmeal and nuts after the rest of the mixture is evenly distributed.

If you translate the above so that one part equals one cup (1 c butter, 1 1/2 c sugar, etc.), you should end up with about 6 to 6 1/2 cups of crumbs, a pretty large amount.
Now, some added details...


How Much Fruit? How Much Topping?
How do I decide how much fruit and how much topping to use? Again, this can vary a great deal. One of the things my mother used to do when making fruit pies was to cut the fruit right into a pie pan of the same size that she would be using for the dessert. When it was full enough (which meant heaping up, because the fruit always cooks down), she would pour it into a mixing bowl and add in whatever sugar, flour or cornstarch, and spices she felt that amount needed. Maybe that’s where I learned my “inexact” approach to these desserts. Anyway, here are some approximations that should serve you very well.

For a 9-inch deep-dish pie pan or 8 or 9 inch square pan, use 3 to 4 cups of fruit and about 2 cups of crumbs. If you want to make a 9 X 13 or similar large pan of crisp, you will probably need 6 to 8 cups of fruit and 4 to 5 cups of crumbs.

In the picture above, you can see that I used a higher proportion of fruit to crumble than is probably typical, but I was being really extravagant with the berries. (Yes, if I were buying raspberries, this would not at all fit the "frugal" aim of the blog. Even at the very lowest prices I have seen in the past year, the cost of the fruit in these two crisps would easily surpass $20 or even $25. One more blessing of even a small garden and fruit area in the back yard.)

Sugar:
The amount of sugar (and possibly thickener like flour or cornstarch) will vary depending on the fruit. For a 9-inch deep-dish pie pan, you will want 1/2 to 1 cup of sugar, depending on the fruit. Berries usually need 1/2 to 3/4 of a cup of sugar, while peaches, nectarines, etc. might require only 1/2 cup, depending on how ripe they are. “Pie” cherries and anything with rhubarb usually need a full cup of sugar.

How can you tell if you have enough sugar? You taste it. Stir the fruit and sugar together well and then take a tiny amount of the fruit with some of the sugary coating and try it out, recognizing that there will be more blending of the flavors as the crisp cooks.

Thickener:
The greater the proportion of fruit to topping, the more thickener you are likely to need. Obviously too, the juicier the fruit, the more flour or cornstarch you’ll need. Here is where recipes can help if you haven’t made many of these kinds of desserts before. (Pie filling recipes work well for fruit crisps as well.) If you look at my January 31, 2011, entry below, you will also find a special way to make apple crisp, Tarte Tatin, that really moves this basic dessert to a whole new level.

Apples present a special problem, since some varieties will cook up with far more juice than others, so a recipe developed for something like Granny Smith apples might turn out very thin if Macintosh apples are used instead. So what are you supposed to do if you don’t know how your apples will cook up or what kind of apples were used in the recipe you are trying? Sometimes, trial and error. There are a lot of resources online that provide some information on specific varieties and what they are like after cooking, but, as noted below, sometimes you will just need to take your best guess and see what happens. As noted below, if you have the sweetness right, you can get by with a lot of variation in the ultimate consistency. I will admit to preferring juicy to “dry,” so I tend to keep the thickener amount on the light side if in doubt. 

Flour or cornstarch? Cornstarch provides a clearer, glossier sauce around the fruit, so that is usually my first choice. However, I find flour works just fine for apples and rhubarb and is perfectly acceptable for any fruits. (I used to use instant tapioca for some fruit fillings, but the expense and extra effort just doesn't seem necessary.)

Fruit:
Another wonderful thing about fruit crisps is their wonderful ability to turn mixtures of all kinds of fruits into a continuing variety of desserts. I live in a part of the country where fall apples are sometimes extremely low in cost, so I often mix these with more expensive fruits since the apples add fruitiness and sweetness while staying in the background of the blueberries, raspberries, etc. Rhubarb (still not at all my favorite!) is also a great stretcher if you have it available in your back yard (or your neighbor’s—these are the spring zucchini of garden sharers). Just think of all those strawberry rhubarb recipes you’ve seen. If you have a couple of peaches that are starting to get a spot or two, you can mix them with whatever berries you happen to have or with apples or even pears and come up with a whole new dessert.

Baking:
Now that I have the fruit in the pan, the crumbs spread over the top, how do I bake it and for how long? Use a 350 degree oven and plan on baking the crisp for 30 to 55 minutes. Berries and other soft fruit will take the shortest time to bake. You will want the filling to be bubbly and, if you have apples, peaches, or other firm fruit, you should be able to insert a table knife into the center and feel that the fruit is thoroughly soft. Fruit crisps are wonderful right out of the oven, but can be served barely warm or cold as well.

Some “cures” for unexpected results:
If the dessert is “juicier” than you’d like:
Serve it in bowls, with ice cream. Though these desserts are really good warm (or even hot), chilling a runny crisp can sometimes thicken it up quite a bit, so that is an option too.
If the dessert is “too thick”:
Cut it in squares and dollop some whipped topping (or ice cream again) over the top. Serving with just plain cream drizzled over is an old fashioned way to serve desserts and can be ideal for a crisp that is just too thick. Sometimes, warming the pieces for a few seconds in the microwave can also make the dessert less firm.
If you discover the filling is not as sweet as you’d like:
Again, go with some ice cream or sweetened whipped cream. If you really missed your target, you could make a sugar syrup (1 cup sugar to 1/2 c water, boiled for about 5 minutes) and drizzle over the entire dessert. I think you’d have to have done something drastically off to need this however.
If you discover the filling is way over the top too sweet:
Try a Wisconsin approach and serve with some slices of good cheddar or similar cheese. You could also top with plain yogurt instead of ice cream or whipped topping.

Final thoughts:
Be flexible…and that is my advice for all manner of crisps. Sometimes you will end up with a dessert that needs to be served in bowls with a spoon and other times you might have a result that is dry enough it looks like a filled cookie bar. Unless you got the sweetness balance wrong somehow, you are likely to find that your dessert will be eagerly received, no matter the consistency…and you just smile when the compliments come in and let everyone assume that you meant it to be just as it came out.

The key to remember with fruit crisps is their wonderful variations and forgiveness of our little changes and missteps. They are also pretty quick to make, especially when compared with pies, and provide endlessly varied desserts as the seasons progress.

Grape Puree Put to a Good Use




My daughter-in-law has been adding to her already busy schedule the making of grape juice and grape jelly, thanks to a proliferation of grapes ripening on their back yard fence. She cooked up a huge pot of grapes for her first batch and allowed them to drain through a colander. This yielded over a gallon of juice, but the pulp left in the colander looked too good to discard. Being a frugal cook after my own heart, she put this pulp through her food mill to strain out the seeds and skins and gave me over five cups of the result.

Hmmm...

I first googled "grape puree recipes" and found mostly pie fillings. All looked good, but I really didn't want to get that elaborate with my experiment. Instead, I started in a similar direction and ended up with a dessert that was closer to a bar cookie than a fruit crisp, my original intent. Probably the only change that I will make with the remaining puree is to add a little more sugar, as these grapes were really quite tart.

Wild Grape Bars

Filling
2 c grape puree
2/3 c sugar (See NOTE)
1/4 c cornstarch
1 t cinnamon
1/4 t mace

Crust and topping
1/3 c butter, softened
1/4 c oil (this could also have been made with 1/2 c butter, omitting the oil)
1/2 c sugar
1/2 c brown sugar
1 t cinnamon
1 1/4 c flour
1 1/2 c oatmeal
3/4 c chopped walnuts

NOTE:  If using red or black seedless grapes (the kind you can buy year round at the grocery store), reduce the amount of sugar to 1/4 cup. Add up to a tablespoon of lemon juice if desired.

1. Filling: In a very large microwave-safe bowl, stir the sugar, spices, and cornstarch together until the cornstarch is thoroughly mixed in. Gradually add the puree and stir until smooth. Place in microwave and cook for about 6 minutes at power level 5 (medium), stirring occasionally, until the mixture is bubbly and thickened. Set aside to cool slightly.

2. Crust: Cut sugars into the butter and oil until evenly mixed. Stir in the flour and cinnamon. Add the oatmeal and nuts and continue to stir until the mixture is evenly crumbly. (A large fork is the best tool for this mixing.)





3. Spread all but about a cup or so of the crumbs in the bottom of a 9 X 13 pan and press so that the crust is firm and even. Spread the filling over the crust and then sprinkle with the remaining crumbs.

4. Finish either in the oven or the microwave:

A. Cook in the microwave for about 20 minutes, at medium power, until bubbly around the edges. OR

B. Bake at 325 for 20 to 25 minutes, until the filling is bubbly and the top is slightly golden.


Alternative uses for the filling:

Add a little water to reach desired consistency, and use as a syrup for pancakes, over ice cream, etc.

Slice or chop a few apples into a pie pan, cover with the grape filling, and then add a crumbly top for a grape-apple crisp.


Saturday, August 13, 2011

Riches from the Garden I - - Easy Pickles





This has been a summer of wonderful rains, lots of heat, overall good conditions for most gardeners around here. Unfortunately, I planted late and only a little and have been showing again that a green thumb is not part of my anatomy.

Still, thanks to many other gardeners I know, I have spent the afternoon making some quick refrigerator pickles along with a very experimental bar cookie/dessert idea using an unusual ingredient only gardeners are likely to have.

First the pickles. The next entry will provide the results of my dessert experiment.

My kids' Uncle Denny always has a huge garden, and he plants lots of cucumbers so that he has plenty for his famous refrigerator pickles. Thanks to his generosity, my house now smells of vinegar and dill, and two large containers of bright green pickles are ready for some time in the refrigerator.


Uncle Denny's Overnight Dills

1 c sugar
1 c vinegar (I prefer cider vinegar)
1/4 c salt--I have had no problem using iodized "table" salt, but you could be a purist and use pickling salt instead
2 c water
dill--as much as you have and want to use
cucumbers--this amount covered about 3 large (6 to 7 inch) cucumbers

Boil the sugar, vinegar, water, and salt together for a minute or two.



While the mixture is cooking, scrub the cucumbers and cut lengthwise into eighths or twelfths. Then cut each sliver into about 3 inch lengths. Layer the cucumbers in a large bowl with the dill and pour the boiling brine over, covering all with liquid. Cover tightly and refrigerate at least 24 hours.

This recipe is very similar to several that can be frozen, but Dennis has never frozen his. They do well for weeks in the refrigerator--if you can keep them from being eaten well before that.

Wednesday, June 29, 2011

Spaghetti and Meatballs and Still a Cool Kitchen














Now that the heat is upon us even in the upper Midwest, it's time to stop using our ovens. Some of us are not grillers, so we need to look for other ways to prepare some favorite foods without heating up the kitchen.

One family favorite even in summer is spaghetti and "meatballs," with mandatory sides of tossed salad and garlic bread. Making the sauce from scratch, boiling a huge pot of water for the pasta, and heating the garlic bread in the oven could result in either a huge drain on the air conditioner or a very uncomfortable kitchen--or both. Here are a few things that can cut the heat and still make this a dish to savor year round. (One advantage of serving this to little ones in the summer is that the meal can be served on the deck where a plastic tablecloth and hose-able floor make the inevitable tomato sauce stains a snap to clean up.)


First, the sauce.

I don't have enough tomatoes in my garden to can or freeze my own spaghetti sauce, but I long ago learned that the most economical brands of spaghetti sauce can be given a "home-cooked" flavor very easily.


Spaghetti Sauce in a Jiffy

1 can or jar (about 26 to 28 oz) spaghetti sauce--tomato based, no alfredo style; I like the "garden" variety of most brands
1/2 c chopped onion
canola oil
1/4 to 1/2 c chopped green or red bell pepper (optional)
1/3 to 1/2 c grated carrot (optional)
garlic powder or minced garlic to taste
mixed dried herbs--I use oregano, basil, and rosemary, with fennel seeds sometimes added as well

Saute the onion, carrot, and bell pepper in the oil, stirring occasionally, until the onions are just starting to turn golden. Add the minced garlic or garlic powder near the end of this sauteeing step. Stir in the spaghetti sauce and seasonings to taste. Continue to cook just until the sauce is heated through.


Next, the spaghetti.

Two years ago, a New York Times article confirmed what I have known for years--you really don't have to heat all that water to cook your pasta! Whether it is spaghetti or macaroni or whatever, you can start with far less water and end up with perfectly cooked pasta with a lot less heat in the kitchen. Don't believe me? Here are a couple of links to back me up:
http://www.seriouseats.com/2010/05/how-to-cook-pasta-salt-water-boiling-tips-the-food-lab.html

...and the NY Times article that started more people on to this method:

http://www.nytimes.com/2009/02/25/dining/25curi.html


As Dr. McGee notes, the overall energy savings if we all started using less water to cook our pasta would be in the hundreds of millions of dollars each year. And while that is a worthy aim in itself, even better right now is the thought of just a little cooler kitchen.

My approach has been to heat just enough water to barely cover the pasta when it will be cooked (which means you may need to experiment a little, using a little less water each time until you get to an optimal, lower level). For spaghetti and fettucine, I use my 12 inch skillet or Dutch oven, because the pasta can just lay across as little as an inch of boiling water. And yes, I do start with the water at a boil rather than putting the pasta into cold water. A little stirring right when the spaghetti is added and then it should be as effortless to cook as when you have that huge vat of boiling water to cope with in the older method.

Give it a try and I'll bet you won't go back to the old way even in the winter when you don't mind heating up the kitchen.

And the meatballs...

Those "meatballs" with the quotation marks? That's because these little critters are vegetarian, but it has been hard to come up with a fitting name. Vegetarian Meatballs is an oxymoron, but that's what we still call them. This recipe came from one of my daughters-in-law and it is a great thing to bake a batch when you don't mind heating up the stove and then freeze for a whole lot of quick meals--this is a really big batch.



Vegetarian "Meatballs"

canola oil
1 c finely minced onion--if these are not cut small enough, it makes the mixture harder to form into balls
2 c Colby or mild Cheddar cheese, grated


2 vegetarian bouillon cubes or packages of vegetable broth seasoning
3/4 c ground pecans (see NOTE)
2 c dry bread crumbs
garlic powder or finely minced garlic to taste--I like about a teaspoon of garlic powder or 3 to 4 large cloves
5 large or extra large eggs (may need 6 if the eggs are a little on the small side)

1. Saute the onions and garlic in a small amount of oil, cooking until they are golden brown.
2. Stir in the remaining ingredients. If the mixture is a little on the dry side, add the sixth egg.
3. Shape the mixture into small balls. I use a round measuring spoon, either the teaspoon or tablespoon size depending on your preference. (Note the plastic gloves. If you are not comfortable using your hands, the easiest of all ways to form these, you may find using the gloves a lot more acceptable.)

4. Spread the balls on a baking sheet and bake at 350 degrees until well browned and a little bubbly around the edges. This will take 12 to 18 minutes, depending on the size of the balls. If you prefer, you can also brown the balls in a little oil on the stove top, but the fat content is high enough that I prefer the oven method; besides, it takes a lot less attention!

These can be frozen prior to or after baking--with either approach, just spread the balls on a baking sheet and freeze until solid. Then place in a tightly sealed freezer bag, removing as many as needed for your next batch of spaghetti.

I usually get at least 6 dozen balls out of this recipe.

NOTE: Our local Fleet Farm store sells ground pecans, usually at a lower price than the larger pieces, and this makes a very convenient addition to these balls. However, if you don't have the ground nuts available, just process pecan pieces until quite finely ground (but not to the stage of "pecan butter!"). While pecans are quite pricey these days, the small amount needed will still make this recipe less expensive than meatballs made with beef or turkey. If necessary, you could substitute walnuts and would probably have an equally tasty result.

Finally, the bread

How many kids really like spaghetti and meatballs because the dish is usually served with toasty garlic bread? And we all know that the best kind is that crusty loaf all slathered with the garlic spread, wrapped in foil and baked in the oven until the inside is almost soggy from the filling and the outside is chewy and just a bit crusty. So how to duplicate that without a hot oven?

To be honest, you probably won't come up with an exact match, but you can come close. First of all, this is the time to buy a fresh loaf of crusty French bread--the kind now carrying the name baguette in even the most suburban of chain supermarkets. Then, if you have a gas stove (may work with a little testing on an electric range but I think it would be quite a bit harder), try the first method below. No gas burners or no non-nonstick pans? Give the microwave a chance. That will be farther from the oven-baked kind, but it still will be a wonderful side. However you prepare the bread, keep the spread in the refrigerator for a quick batch of garlic bread--or just spread it on a slice of bread hot out of the toaster; the flavor will be the same, even if the texture isn't quite the way you remember your best garlic bread.

All Purpose Garlic Spread

1/2 c butter
1/2 c olive oil (or more, to taste)
1 t garlic powder or to taste
1/4 to 1/2 t salt, to taste

Cut the butter into chunks in a 2 cup glass measure. Place in the microwave at low power for about 15 to 30 seconds, just enough to soften well. Add in olive oil to reach the one cup line--or more if you prefer to have the olive oil more predominant in flavor. Stir in the garlic powder and salt and mix well. If using immediately, use a pastry brush to spread on the bread. When chilled, this has a great spreading consistency and it stores in the refrigerator for a couple of weeks, if you haven't found lots of uses for it before then. (Makes a great topping on vegetables, works well for sauteeing a few onions, etc.)

Stove-top Grilled Garlic Bread

Use only a cast iron or heavy steel or anodized aluminum pan without nonstick coating for this method.

Cut and spread a loaf of chewy French or artisan bread as you would prepare it for baking. Wrap tightly in aluminum foil.
Meanwhile, place the pan on medium high and heat for 5 to 10 minutes, until it is very hot. Lay the tightly wrapped bread in the pan, add a few drops of water OR a bit of oil to the pan, and cover tightly. Lower the flame a little but keep the pan quite hot. Allow to heat for about 5 to 7 minutes and test for warmth by simply putting your hand on the top of the foil package. If it is very warm to hot to touch, turn it over and heat another minute or so.


Microwaved Garlic Bread

Oil a rectangular cake pan and place in the microwave with a cup measure filled with water. Heat for a minute or two and then leave the pan in place to continue warming.

Meanwhile, prepare the garlic bread as usual. Place in the hot glass pan, cover loosely with waxed paper or a microwave lid with lots of holes for steam to escape. Heat for about 1 to 3 minutes, depending on the amount of bread and your oven's power.

Friday, June 17, 2011

A Surprising Pesto


Some friends have kindly given me access to their share of a CSA (Community Supported Agriculture) while they are on vacation, so I received a box overflowing with lettuce, radishes, and spinach this week. The lettuce will make wonderful salads, but the amount of radish greens overwhelmed the radishes themselves. This sent me on a quest for more info on the edibility of these greens and possible ways to prepare them. Net result? A surprisingly great pesto and a barely so-so soup. I'll continue to tweak the latter but will include my take on the pesto here. Note that the pesto seems intensely garlicky; perhaps the spiciness of the greens boosts the garlic flavor. Keep that in mind as you choose the size of garlic clove to include.

If you have radishes fresh and ready from your garden, give this a try. All the info on radish greens emphasizes the very temporary nature of these tender leaves and the need to use them quickly from the garden. I tasted my supply first before even attempting any recipes. Though there are many references to the bitterness of these greens, I found none of that at all, just a light and pleasant spiciness--not surprising given the spicy flavor of the roots.

Radish Greens Pesto

2 oz (about 2 packed cups) well washed radish leaves, stems removed
1 oz grated Parmesan
1 oz whole almonds
1 large clove garlic, cut in two or three pieces
1 T olive oil, or more as needed
1/2 t salt
1/4 t Cajun seasoning, smoked paprika, or any favorite pepper seaoning with a bit of a bite

Place all ingredients except salt and cajun seasoning in a processor and blend until smooth. Drizzle in a little more oil if the mixture is too dry. Taste and season accordingly.

This had a slightly crunchy texture because I just put whole almonds in with the remaining ingredients, so they were not completely blended. If you prefer a smoother texture, just blend these lightly first, or use slivered almonds instead of the whole ones.

If you look closely at the picture below, you will see that the leaves have a few of the holes left by flea beetles. I cut out any obviously brown spots but did not worry about including the still green leaves infested with these little bites.



Frugal: Since most of us routinely throw the greens away when we prepare radishes, that part of this recipe could be considered virtually free. This year, almonds are among the least expensive nuts, and the parmesan was plain old store brand grated.

Fast: Everything goes into the blender at once, and there are no other dishes to wash. If you like pesto on pasta, this would take less time to make than waiting for the water to boil.

Fit: Nutrition information on radish leaves was a little light, but several sites included this information:
Radishes, like other cruciferous vegetables, are high in vitamin C, which is the primary cancer-preventing antioxidant agent. One cup of the root supplies twenty-five percent of the daily recommended amount. Radish greens have six times the amount of vitamin C found in the root, as well as a significant amount of calcium, iron, and thiamine. These vegetables are also good sources of folic acid, potassium, and the trace mineral molybdenum. Molybdenum is thought to be involved in nervous system development, kidney function, and energy production at the cellular level.
Fun: This recipe was tested and approved by a not-real-fond-of-greens granddaughter. She tasted and then continued to "test" through several tablespoons of the pesto on plain old saltines, the only thing I had available for snacking when she stopped by.

Now for a little more work on developing a soup with radish greens that is worth the effort.

Monday, June 13, 2011

Dhal Stuffed Peppers


As the price of food continues to rise, I spent a little time looking over the dried peas and beans selection at a local market. Even the most expensive of these will still provide a lot of economical meals, but I was going for really cheap, and I found the two lowest price products were whole dried peas, with yellow split peas only a few pennies more. I didn't have time to cook the whole peas for dinner (they have to soak an extended time, just like dried beans), but the split peas would be quick, if I could just come up with a flavorful meal with what I had in the cupboard.

I still had some green peppers in the refrigerator from a super special a few weeks ago, so it was time to stuff some peppers. Since yellow split peas are a common ingredient of many of the dhals cooked in India, I decided to go in that direction with the seasonings.

Note the microwave preparation of the peppers. This cuts the time a great deal and keeps more of the fresh flavor of the vegetable. These would be great with yellow or red peppers in place of the green ones--or a mixture of all the colors for some real color appeal.

Dhal Stuffed Peppers

1 c chopped onion (one medium)
1 to 2 c grated carrot (one to two medium)
1 T canola oil
1 c yellow split peas, washed and rinsed (8 oz)
3 c water (may need a bit more as the peas cook)
2 vegetable or chicken bouillon cubes
1 to 2 t garlic powder
2 t curry powder, or to taste
1/2 t coriander (optional)
1/2 t cayenne pepper, or to taste
1 t cumin
2 large green peppers, cut in half lengthwise

1. Wash and rinse the split peas and cover with water. Bring to a boil and reduce the heat to a slow simmer. Total cooking time will be about 30 minutes. The peas should be very soft when done.

2. Saute the onions and grated carrots in the oil, cooking slowly until the onions are just starting to brown. Set aside.

3. When the peas are just about as soft as you want, stir the bouillon cubes and other seasonings into the peas and stir well. Continue cooking until the peas are soft.

4. When the peas are done, puree in a food processor or blender until smooth. Stir this mixture into the onions and carrots and mix well. Taste and adjust for seasoning.

5. Meanwhile, cut the peppers, remove all seeds and white inner sections. Place in a glass casserole dish (a 9 inch square baking pan works well) that has been sprayed with nonstick coating. Cover lightly and microwave for about 3 minutes, until they are just barely beginning to soften.

6. Distribute the split pea mixture among the peppers, packing it in well. You may have more filling than you need. Either fill a couple of additional peppers or save the puree for serving with pita at another meal.

7. Cover the dish lightly and return to the microwave for another two to three minutes, until the peppers are piping hot.

8. Serve topped with chopped raw onion and cilantro if desired. Serves 4.


This is a vegan dish if vegetable bouillon cubes are used.

Frugal: The peppers were on sale for 33 cents each, the split peas cost 79 cents for a pound, and the onions had also been purchased for 33 cents a pound. This entire dish easily cost less than $2 for four servings and there is likely to be enough extra filling for at least one or two pitas for tomorrow's lunches. Those gardeners who are more successful than I might remember this if you have a bumper crop of peppers this year.

(You might want to try this--with some bell or hot peppers added with the onions--to stuff overly abundant zucchini as well.)

Fast: All of the preparation can be completed while the peas are cooking, so it would take little more than 45 minutes to have this done, start to finished. Finish with whatever fresh fruit is in season for a quick dessert course, with or without some yogurt to add dairy if you are so inclined.

Fit: It's hard to get healthier than a dish with all these vegetables and a low-fat protein source.

Fun: If your family likes Indian food, this would be a quick way to include these favorite seasonings in a quick weeknight meal. And the colors in this meal really brighten the table.

Tuesday, May 31, 2011

Leftover Bread Turned into a Spring Salad




The most recent batch of homemade bread had dwindled to one large bun and the chunky end of the last loaf, not enough of either to serve as a side for a salad lunch. Turning them into hefty croutons didn't make the resulting dish a "bread salad," but it did add body and savory flavor due to the garlic and added herbs.

I love the pairing of spinach and shredded cabbage, and that became the base for this mostly green salad. The rest of the list of ingredients is highly variable, based on what's in your refrigerator and your personal preferences.

The dressing has a nutrition boost, and the croutons (especially if made with a hearty whole grain bread) add to the overall balance, so this could be a good one dish main course justifying a hearty spring dessert like strawberry shortcakes or bright, and light, lemon meringues.




Healthy Spring Salad with Croutons


(NOTE--ALL salad ingredient amounts are approximate and are provided only as guides)

2 to 3 c spinach, coarsely torn
2 to 3 c shredded cabbage
2 to 3 T finely diced sweet onion
1/2 c diced green bell pepper
1/2 c diced, peeled, cucumber
2 to 3 T chopped cilantro (plus more for garnish if desired)
1 c shredded carrot (1 small to medium)

Protein Boosted Dressing
Croutons
Shredded cheddar or Monterrey jack cheese (optional)

Toss all the salad ingredients with the dressing. Divide into 3 to 4 salad plates and top with croutons and cheese just before serving. Add a grind of black pepper if desired.

Protein Boosted Dressing

1 c plain yogurt
1/4 to 1/3 c light Italian dressing--or your favorite
seasoning salt and/or cayenne pepper to taste

Stir together and toss with salad.

Croutons

2 T olive or canola oil
1/2 t garlic powder OR 2 to 3 cloves fresh garlic, minced
1/2 to 1 t dried herbs--I used a mixture of 2 parts basil, 1 part rosemary, 1 part thyme
1/2 to 1 t salt, to taste
approximately 2 c leftover bread, cut in large cubes

Stir the seasonings into the oil in a large skillet and heat on medium high for 3 to 4 minutes. When the oil is well heated and fragrant, stir in the bread and stir to coat evenly. Continue to cook, stirring often, until the bread is golden brown and quite crisp. Leftover croutons may be stored in a tightly covered container in the refrigerator for up to a week.

Barbecue Sauce--A Better Alternative to the Bottled Stuff


With barbecue season upon us, here is a recipe for a generally healthy barbecue sauce that goes well with many different meats, whether grilled or prepared in the kitchen.

So many of the barbecue sauces on the market include high fructose corn syrup, and none include the dose of vitamin A and other nutrients contributed by squash here. This time of the year, the best source of the squash will be in the freezer section.

Feel free to alter this to meet your family's tastes, increasing or decreasing the mustard, perhaps even adding some liquid smoke if that is something you favor. Garlic, more or less onion, maybe some cayenne or other source of heat--lots of ways to make this your own. The recipe makes a generous amount that keeps well in the refrigerator, if you have any left after your next cook out.

Mustardy Barbecue Sauce
2 c diced onion (1 large)
1/3 to 1/2 c diced bell pepper
1/4 to 1/3 c water
8 oz butternut squash puree
1/4 to 1/3 c yellow mustard
1 T cider vinegar
2 T Worcestershire sauce
app 1 1/2 c ketchup
1/3 c brown sugar
1 T molasses
salt, black pepper to taste

1. Sauté the onions in a small amount of oil. After about five minutes, add the bell pepper and continue sauteing until the onions are translucent and slightly browned.

2. Add remaining ingredients and simmer for about 20 to 30 minutes, until the desired consistency has been reached and the flavors have had an opportunity to blend.

3. After about ten minutes, taste and adjust seasonings as needed.

Recipe can be doubled if desired.